The Times
Thursday, January 5, 1961, page 40 (of 41)
The page
The text of this pageRead by computer from the scan, so some words may be wrong. The page picture is the original.
Having worked out what will flourish and look well together, consider setting aside a small area as a cutting garden—even 7-by-10 feet will suffice. Here you can plant the seeds leftover from the border packets, and you'll be able to cut all summer long without decimating the flower beds. Use this area also as a "Plant Bank" on which to draw, replacing plant failures and filling in when plants fade. Most annuals can be transplanted at any time during the summer. If you soak the soil the day before and take up a trowelful or a spadeful of soil with the root system, little harm will result. Firm the soil around the roots in the new location, water well and keep moist for a couple of weeks. For the first several days shade the transplants with a cone of newspapers to reduce moisture loss and sun-wilt. In this way you can keep the garden always in good repair. In our own garden we find the cutting beds useful also for an early start of annuals outdoors, transplanting between the bulbs as they begin to go by. Then, when the bulb leaves ripen and are removed, the little annuals are already big enough to take over and start to bloom, going right on into autumn. By transplanting some of the young seedlings to your beds you can thin the rows in the cutting garden and thus avoid having to thin two beds and throw away the small seedlings. Another personal tip may save work in the cutting garden. Although most gardeners advise leaving plenty of space between rows, we space the rows rather closely, working in extra plant food as we plant, to compensate for the closeness. The rows thus shade out most weeds as the plants grow up as well as reduce moisture loss in the soil due to excess sun. We run the rows from east to west, planting low-growing annuals on the south and tapering up to the tallest in the northern rows, in order that all may get their quota of sun, even though the roots are shaded. The rows are only about five feet long with paths placed on either side and every four feet or so between rows (see the plan below). This allows one to lean in and snip out exactly the flowers wanted without back strain or menace to the rest of the plants. Paths may be of gravel, grass, wood chips, bricks, or sand—anything that keeps down the weeds and makes it easy to get about in wet weather. Another feature of this garden is that it is pretty—you won't have to hide it behind a fence, unless you want to, because it is always gay and decorative with its mixture of bloom, which only tends to get better the more it is cut.
Plan for cutting garden—the rows close-set, minimum space as indicated.
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