Coral Gables Riviera

PAGE 2 THE CORAL GABLES RIVIERA FRIDAY, OCT. 24, 1941

Squared-off brim and funnel-shaped crown are the unusual and flattering new features of this black felt hat. Notice how the square brim dips on all sides, flatteringly framing the face. Its tall crown adds inches to the height of small girls. (Ruth Covell Original.

Frock and hat of the same material and color for wear under fur coats is a leading fashion note. Portland Hoffa of the "Texaco Star Theatre" wears a Zoe de Salle light blue wool ensemble, featuring front and back panels of pleats and clever shirring on either side of the bodice. Her high hat has a rippled brim and tailored bow of grosgrain.

In the Women's World

Suit hat in grey wool with blue and grey bird is chosen for this Glen plaid man-tailored suit. Notice the cashmere pullover rather than a blouse.

Hair encasing hats not only are seductively attractive, but protect locks against damp or blustery winds. CBS actress Charlotte Manson of "Stepmother" wears Lil Picard's pink angora pillbox with black chenille snood trimmed from crown to snood's edge with little pink angora bows.

Folded under brim on this pale blue felt hat is both youthful and flattering. Notice how the fold fits in with the pompadour effect of her coiffure. Its sole trimming is a wired black grosgrain bow to tie in with her black crepe frock. (Hat by Michael).

Hair's More Than Half The Battle for Beauty

Indignant exception is being taken today by many well-dressed women and celebrities of the fashion, stage and screen worlds against the current introduction of using over-all hats, wimples, veils, turbans and other hooded methods to cover up a woman's prime asset to charm and femininity—her hair. Shining, lustrous hair and a flattering coiffure is more than half the battle for beauty, says Gladys Swarthout, lovely and celebrated opera and radio singer, who wears her locks in a softly curled, shoulder-length frame for her expressive features. She believes that entirely hiding the hair has an "unflattering and aging effect." "Concealing a thing of beauty, as a woman's hair should be," declares Miss Swarthout, who has been three times voted one of the ten best-dressed women in polls by American designers, "is a crime of which no true feminine personality should ever be accused. The idea seems to be that a woman is ashamed of her hair." "Hiding her head in a bag" is how Fira Benenson, designer of Bonwit Teller's Salon de Couture and one of the Big Six stylists of America, terms the woman who follows the tendency of over-all headgear. She approves of hats as "accessories that should add to the charm of lustrous hair," and says that a beautiful and becoming hat should be worn only to co-operate in showing and accenting the beauty of the wearer's locks." "Judging by what I have seen thus far," says Ilka Chase, fashion expert and well-known radio and screen commentator, I would say that many of the women wearing the shrouded hat to hide the hair would be better off hiding the face." Naturally, the decisive opinion of these smart women who know the vagaries of fashion so well, is dependent on the assumption that a woman's hair is really beautiful, so that she may show it with pride and self-assurance in its loveliness. In making known this decision, they have taken it for granted that the pretty heads they say should be exploited, rather than hidden, are clean, healthy pates with locks that are manageable, lustrous and gleaming and ready for all the various hair-do's in the season's trends. Heads, indeed, which have been vigorously brushed, massaged and shampooed with the new liquid, soapless solution which now has hair-conditioner added. With just such well-groomed heads in mind, we find that even the masculine viewpoint is in agreement that lovely hair tucked into a cover-all snood or turban is a folly to be deplored. For Charles Cooper, well-known American designer, expresses his opinion thus: "Wouldn't it depend a great deal on the hair?" (thus implying indirectly that a completely covered head might be concealing deficiencies in the coiffure and hair itself) "Any girl with beautiful hair," he adds, "is just crazy to cover it up." Valentina, designer for many stars of stage and screen and socialites, says, "Certainly nit!—Snoods and wimples are meant to be used in mere individual cases as a part of very individual costumes; you cannot take an occasional thing like that and make a habit of it." Although these experts on beauty and smartness have given their opinions in varied phases and on different points of the case of completely to hat, to half hat or not to hat at all, the general idea is identical: that woman's hair has been immortalized by poets, writers and artists throughout the centuries in every country of the land, and suddenly now to hide away this lovely halo of femininity must be nothing but a passing whim of fashion which, in all logic and standard of beauty, cannot last long.

Diary of a Beauty Authority

Editor's Note: This is the second in a series of articles by Helena Rubinstein, world famous beauty authority, offered as a special feature to women readers of The Riviera. NEW YORK—A young girl with a bad acne condition came to me today and asked me to help her. She has been trying to find a job as a private secretary, and although many of her letters have received encouraging replies, she has always been refused after a personal interview. "It's my skin, I know" she said miserably. "I don't know what to do about it. I had a perfect skin till I was about 15, and then I began to develop these blemishes. Mother never bothered about it because she thought it was just adolescence, and that I'd outgrow it. But I haven't outgrown it and I doubt if I ever shall. Meanwhile, how am I ever going to get a job with a skin like this?" Her plea is no different from hundreds of others that come to me every day. My desk is piled high with letters from boys and girls in their 'teens who don't know what to do about the ugly blemishes that are marring their fresh youthful faces. It is a real tragedy to them, for they feel so entirely out of things. They cannot have fun at parties; they are maladjusted at school. Or, as in the case of the young girl who came to me today—they find that a bad skin prevents them from obtaining a job. The treatment for adolescent skin is really quite simple and there is no reason why any boy or girl should suffer from a blemished skin at this important of life. I suggested the following program of care of the young girl who has found it impossible to get a job, and if she follows it faithfully, she will have no trouble finding a job a month or two from now. First of all, I told her to keep her skin scrupulously clean. At least once a day, I advised her, wash your face with a special washing preparation which will provide some friction for your skin. Have this your basic daily wash. Then, in the morning and evening, use a rich concentrated cream to cleanse and lubricate your skin. Blend the cream into your complexion with firm, upward strokes following the youthful muscle structure of your face. Before going to bed, apply a medicated cream and leave it on overnight. One thing many teensters overlook is the importance of using make-up that is absolutely pure and scientific. Powders should be carefully selected according to the type of skin—a special powder should be used for dry and for oily skin. A make-up film as a powder foundation will conceal skin defects and hold make-up smoothly. Rouge and lipstick, too, should be selected with an eye toward supplementing the effects of the daily scientific care. Warm make-uptones, not too brilliant, such as red coral in rouge and lipstick, and a mauresque shade of powder, are best for the kind of skin which is inclined toward coarse pores, oiliness or other disturbances. Finally, the following rules should be observed: Avoid touching the face with fingers while treating the skin. Use cotton for powdering the face, discarding the cotton used after such application. Cleanse face thoroughly before applying make-up. Give hair and scalp proper attention, since falling dandruff aggravates the condition. Drink plenty of water. Avoid rich foods. If you have any questions regarding your own skin problems, Madame Rubinstein will be glad to answer them personally if you will address your inquiry to Helena Rubinstein, care of this Paper. Next Week: Your Fragrance Personality

CAKE THE MASCULINE WAY!

A round-table discussion on men's likes and dislikes in the matter of cake always brings out the fact that it is a cake's flavor and moistness that score with the masculine appetite. The fine pinpoint texture, exceptional volume or highly decorative frosting which we women prize so highly are all nothing but frills in the eyes of a man. "How does it taste?" is his measuring stick for cake quality. Here is a recipe for a moist and spicy Spanish meringue cake with a "baked-on" frosting—a cake that is sure to suit the masculine fancy. Sour milk is the recipe helps to make it extra moist. But, of course, as with all cakes, the moistness of the finished products is governed somewhat by the baking conditions. Modern electric ranges, with their thermostatically controlled ovens provide a moist, even heat which bakes cakes a delicate, beautiful brown in any part of the oven. The recipe for the Spanish meringue cake is given below: Spanish Meringue Cake 1 cup cake flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon soda 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon nutme 1/2 cup butter 1 1/2 cups brown sugar, firmly packed 2 egg yolks plus 1 whole egg 1/2 cup sour milk or buttermilk 1/2 cup walnuts, chopped 2 egg whites 2 walnut halves Sift cake flour once, measure and sift 3 times with the baking powder, soda, one-quarter teaspoon cinnamon and one-quarter teaspoon nutmeg. Cream butter until soft, then add 1 cup brown sugar gradually and continue creaming until light and fluffy. Beat the egg yolks and whole egg until light, then add to the creamed mixture, stirring well. Add the sifted dry ingredients in three portions, alternately with the sour milk or buttermilk, beating well after each addition. Pour into a greased 8-inch square pan and sprinkle the nuts on top. Then place the two egg whites in a bowl and beat until they will hold a peak but are not dry. Combine the remainder of the cinnamon, nutmeg and brown sugar and add gradually, beating until well mixed. Spread this topping over the nut-covered batter, being careful not to spread to close to the edge. Arrange walnut halves on top and bake in a preheated electric oven at 350 degrees F. for 40 minutes. Cool before serving. This cake should be cut in the pan.

Chaucer Chapter British Daughters Resume Work

The Chaucer Chapter, British Daughters, made plans for the winter's work at the first meeting held at the regent, Mrs. T. G. Leitch's home. A plan of a series of telephone bridge parties will be worked out to take place monthly on the first Monday night. These parties will be held at members homes. Funds derived from the parties will go toward the chapter's mobile kitchen fund. Mrs. A. D. Amerise, 3745 Alhambra Court will be hostess for the next meeting of the chapter to be held the first Tuesday in November. Mrs. Leitch made an appeal for more workers for the Aid to Britain shop situated at 208 Alhambra Circle. Those who are interested in cutting and working on children's garments are especially wanted. Also knitters. The shop, which has remained open all summer is grateful to all its friends for the donations of garments, papers, magazines and tinfoil. The shop received from one patron a large carton of phonograph records, half of which have been sent to the San Sebastian barracks and half to Opa Locka.

LESSON-SERMON ANNOUNCED

Churches of Christ, Scientist "Probation after Death," is the subject of the Lesson-Sermon which will be read in Churches of Christ, Scientist, throughout the world on Sunday, October 26. The Golden Text is: "Take heed, brethren, lest there be in any of you an evil heart of unbelief, in departing from the living God. But exhort one another daily, while it is called To day" (Hebrews 3:12, 13). Among the citations which comprise the Lesson-Sermon is the following from the Bible: "Behold, I show you a mystery; We shall not all sleep, but we shall all be changed, For this corruptible must put on corruption, and this mortal must put on immortality" (I Cor. 15:51,-53). The Lesson-Sermon also includes the following passage from the Christian Science textbook, "Science and Health with Key to the Scriptures" by Mary Baker Eddy: "We know that all will be changed 'in the twinkling of an eye,' when the last trump shall sound; but this last call of wisdom cannot come till mortals have already yielded to each lesser call in the growth of Christian character" (p. 291: 5-9).

Meeting Called

A called meeting of the Society of the Little Flower will be held at 1:30 p. m. Monday in the rectory of the Church of the Little Flower. Mrs. Boyd Taylor will preside.

Prayer Circle

The woman's prayer circle of the First Presbyterian Church will meet at 10:30 a. m. Tuesday in the chapel. A program has been arranged.

Score a Kitchen Goal After the Local Gridders Have Won With These:

After the last exciting touchdown has been scored the crowd that assembles at your house will be hungry as bears. And since it's very likely that you will be leaving the football stadium at the last possible minute, all your preparations for the post-game snack are best made in advance. The food can be served very shortly after you return if you leave in readiness a food assortment such as this: prepared buns ready to be relayed to the broiler, an immense supply of home-baked beans, a tray of relishes, canned French-fried onions or potato sticks in a pan ready to be heated, and a rich spice cake with caramel frosting. Plenty of coffee, piping hot, is all that is needed to complete this menu and make it a huge success! The broiler buns are not at all difficult to prepare — not—I mean, with an excellent modern electric broiler. Built with an eye to capacity, these broilers can accommodate a goodly number of buns at one time and still brown them all with the same degree of evenness. A succulent and zippy filling for the buns may be made by wrapping three tender shoots of canned asparagus in a slice of minced ham loaf and spreading with horseradish butter. The ham rolls and split buns are broiled separately and the buns filled just before serving. Such snacks disappear at a football party like snow before the sun. These Touchdown buns, as they are called, may be broiled in relays—in which case you serve one trayful just as soon as it comes from the broiler, then refill the rack and broil a second lot while the first are being eaten. If you are handling the food without help, however, enough buns for all the guests may be broiled before any are served, and the extra "second helping" buns may then be kept hot in the oven or warming oven placing them on the wire racks so that they will not steam and become tough. Here are the directions for the Touchdown Buns: Touchdown Sandwiches 1/2 pound minced ham loaf 1 No. 2 can asparagus speares, drained 1-3 cup prepared mustard or horseradish butter 8 long, flat buns Have the meat dealer slice the minced ham loaf about one-eighth inch thick. Drain asparagus spears. Wrap each slice of minced ham around 3 of the asparagus spears and fasten with of the ham roll with prepared a toothpick. Spread the outside mustard or horseradish butter prepared by mixing one teaspoon of horseradish with each tablespoon butter used. Split the long flat buns by cutting lengthwise at right angles to the bottom crust. Press open and lightly butter each cut edge. Preheat broiler until it is a glowing herry red. Place minced ham rolls and a corresponding number of the split and buttered buns on the rack of the cold broiler pan and insert so that the surface of the food is 4 inches below the unit. Broil with door ajar about 6 minutes or until the buns are toasted and the ham rolls are heated through. Place a ham roll in each bun and serve immediately.

Sermon Topic

"The Least Shall be Greatest" is the subject of the sermon to be delivered by the Rev. Carlock Hawk at the 11 o'clock service Sunday at the Methodist Church. The Epworth leagues will meet at 7 p. m. Sunday school at 9:45 a. m.

RATTAN at its BEST

Buy Direct at the Factory : : : : Watch Rattan Furniture Made to Your Order COMPARE! NEVER BEFORE HAS A VALUE LIKE THIS BEEN OFFERED 4-PIECE RATTAN BREAKFAST SUITE COMPOSED OF 1 24x48 TABLE, CHOICE OF 4 ARMCHAIRS OR SIDE CHAIR - $39.50 4 - PIECE SUITE (Style Illustrated) Composed of One 60-inch Settee, 2 Armchairs, 1 Coffee Table 18 x 30 inches $49.50 COFFEE TABLES $6:50 ARMCHAIRS From $7.50 Estimates Cheerfully Given FLORIDA RATTAN FURNITURE MFG., Inc. 220 Alhambra Circle (RENUART CENTER) It Will Pay You to Drive to Beautiful CORAL GABLES PHONE 4-5167 Open Evenings by Appointment CHECK THESE FEATURES BRASS NAILS THROUGHOUT Your Own Selection of Fabrics Bending by Torch Heat Immediate Delivery

STRAIGHT FROM NEW YORK

THE LONG TORSO The long-waisted look is important this season, especially as emphasized in this New York creation with wide banding hugging the hips. Subtle shirring gives the desired molded and slimming effect. The gown is of filmy white chiffon jersey with full skirt hanging straight. The matching scarf can be draped in a variety of ways

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