The Times

18 TIMES/GUIDE Wednesday, May 5, 1976

Vinton's is a restaurant not to be trifled with

Vinton's Townhouse Restaurant, 116 Alhambra Cir., 443-1117. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday to Friday; Dinner, 6 to 11 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Major credit cards accepted. place settings . . . south dade, coral gables The wrought iron chandeliers, the white lace tablecloths, the creamy soup and the courteous service are all things I liked about Vinton's Townhouse right away. But, it wasn't until the English Trifle that I fell in love. You can get Trifle, a super dessert, almost anywhere in England and almost nowhere here. Vinton's takes the traditional English recipe and does it up proudly in a crystal goblet with whipped cream, custard, moist cake, jam and bits of fruit. For $1.50, it's a delight and the rest of lunch isn't bad either. The luncheon menu tempts with a set brunch: fresh fruit, filet mignon, creamed spinach topped with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce, and banana foster flambe — all for $8.50. But it would be a shame to take the set bill of fare and overlook the other offerings. Appetizers include an unusual combination of fresh mushroom caps, escargot pate and bacon for $3.95 plus shrimp cocktail, $3.75, a coquille of lump crab meat au gratin, $4.75 or canapes with fresh Beluga Caviar, $6.95. Luncheon entrees are a little lighter than the roast duckling or rack of lamb served in the evening. Broiled crabmeat on a bun is $4.95; crepe offerings range from mixed seafood for $5.75 to cheese and ham for $4.25. Steak Tartar or a prime steak sandwich are the only beef offerings and there are four tempting salads to choose from. The Californian omelet is unusual and surprisingly filling. It's stuffed with avocado, tomato and Monterey Jack cheese and sprinkled with Parmesan. The avocado is firm, but not hard, and just barely heated through — a neat trick in the middle of a piping hot omelet ($3.95). The setting couldn't be more pleasant. Nestled in the ground floor of the La Palma hotel, Vinton's has the mood of a private club with the welcoming grace of a sidewalk cafe. Red velvet cushioned arm chairs, a red and black figured carpet, richly paneled walls bordered with log-studded stucco, open beamed ceilings and red drapes with floral inserts create a mood of serenity and luxury. Waitresses in long skirts and waiters in red jackets bustle about quietly, appearing out of nowhere when an ashtray needs to be emptied or a coffee cup refilled. A modest selection of wines and aperitifs is on the luncheon menu and a complete wine list is available. So let's order a glass and toast Vinton's — a fine restaurant not be be Trifled with. — ERICA MEYER

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