The Coral Gables Times

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DELMAR LIPP Practice—teacher stands behind stove so class can see what's cooking. Beard's, where 8 lessons cost $125 plus food costs, and that of Dione Lucas, where six lessons cost $100, including food. Students range from fashion models, middle-aged housewives, and big-name actresses to lawyers, advertising men with food accounts, and private cooks, often sent by their employers. Men usually are in the minority, but not necessarily a conspicuous one. Thanks to the charcoal broiler, thousands of American males already know something of the pleasures of being a chef. The enormously accelerating interest in food is best illustrated by the career of Joseph Hyde, a 32-year-old scion of a well-to-do family and a master of the demonstration technique in cooking schools. He has devoted himself to cooking with the same ardor that leads other scions into Wall Street, law, or banking. Not long after college, he was drafted for the Korean War and asked if he would serve in an army kitchen. He boldly replied he would—if he could be assured a supply of wine to cook with. A warrant officer, badly in need of a cook, agreed to wangle it for him. What followed constitutes a new episode in Army cuisine which might be entitled, "Tom Swift and his Electric Hot Plate." Hyde's company was assigned to a frontline group in Korea, where the chow was sent up to combat troops in huge thermos jugs that steamed everything—steak, potatoes, spaghetti, hamburger. Cook Hyde decided good stew was better than rubbery steak and so transformed the steak into a subtly flavored ragout. Hamburger became a delicate meat sauce combined with macaroni and cheese in layers. To boiled potatoes, he added parsley, butter, and lemon juice to make parsley potatoes. The amazed frontline never had it so good. AFTER THE WAR, Hyde got a post as apprentice at $57 a month in the noted Nandron restaurant in Lyon, the culinary capital of France. He was soon introduced not only to a French kitchen but to traditional kitchen hazing. Given a bushel basket of larks to pluck, he was told to work crouched under the sink where he became a target for sloshing dishwater. He plucked the larks without complaining, but the hazing a la francaise continued; some days later, in an effort to get the new apprentice drunk, the chefs put on a wine-drinking contest, drawing on a reserve smuggled from the restaurant's wine cellar. Hyde came through with flying colors; the other chefs got plastered. His age was a major embarrassment. The average chef's apprentice in France is 13, and under municipal law Hyde had to attend the apprentice's school, where, as some distinguished chef lectured, the 13-year-olds occasionally took to throwing spitballs. For punishment they had to line up facing Continued on page 24 Suburbia Today, April 1961 23

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