The Times

Around The World Again

Continued from page 13 and there is little to interest the tourist. Bali itself is still a strange, remote paradise, gentle, poor, and beautiful. Probably the best accommodations are at Jimmy Pandy's, a traveled, educated Indonesian who has turned his home, which is right on the beach, into a guesthouse. The harbor of Hong Kong, our next stop, is one of the great ports of the world, a vivid, colorful, romantic city where bargains abound and where the shops and stalls and restaurants and tailors offer irresistible delights. For my own clothes I should certainly return to Zou Nan and Ying Tai. For men the doctor recommends George Chan in the Peninsula Court. We both love Benny's shoes. If you have bought silk or jewels in Thailand, where you can get a respectable star ruby for $35, Hong Kong is the place to have a dress made or a stone set. (These shops are mostly on the Kowloon side.) JAPAN is a fascinating country, the land and the inhabitants perpetually reproducing their own prints, but if you go as we did, purely for a tourist's visit, I should say at ten days to two weeks, at the outside, is ample. We were there for three weeks. I am not so fatuous as to assume I have now absorbed Japanese culture and need never return. One could spend a lifetime becoming acquainted with their art and philosophy and way of life. I speak purely from the point of view of an American tourist who wants to see as much of the world as the time and money at his disposal will permit. Now that we have hindsight, I think we should have stayed our extra week in Egypt or India, two countries we were obliged to pass over. But to cut out Japan altogether would be to miss enormous charm and incomparable art. Tokyo is now the largest city in the world, but it is in the Japanese countryside and in cities like Kyoto and Osaka that one gets nearer to the Japanese people and their way of life. When traveling in Japan, by all means stay at a native inn. The tiny, exquisite gardens opening from every room, the furnishings, the way they serve the food is a new and rewarding experience for a westerner. In Kyoto we stayed at the Tawaraya Inn, a small and cozy jewel. There is one thing, however, I would never do, and that is go back to Japan in August. It is the typhoon season, dank and sodden with rain every day. April and May, September and October, they say, are the great months. Traveling can be disappointing, it can be exhausting, it can be costly. At certain times in certain places it can be dangerous. It can also supply the most memorable experiences of one's life. If asked if I would ever go around the world again, I could only reply, "When do we start?"

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